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   - 118彩色厍图库印刷图库心水资料 - wg479.com

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  二四六天天好彩资料 二四六天天好彩资料 二四六天天好彩资料

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来源:凤凰网旅游

“不要问我从哪里来,我的故乡在远方……”1943年的今天,作家三毛出生在重庆。这位一直洒脱自由的传奇女子,用半生流浪,更用一生追求诗和远方。读三毛记述旅途的文字,人们为之动容,因为其间也承载着我们对于旅行、爱情甚至于生活的某种向往。今天,就跟着凤凰网旅游一同缅怀,追随三毛的足迹去看世界各地的风景。,,

“不要问我从哪里来,我的故乡在远方……”1943年的今天,作家三毛出生在重庆。这位一直洒脱自由的传奇女子,用半生流浪,更用一生追求诗和远方。读三毛记述旅途的文字,人们为之动容,因为其间也承载着我们对于旅行、爱情甚至于生活的某种向往。今天,就跟着凤凰网旅游一同缅怀,追随三毛的足迹去看世界各地的风景。

今天是3月26日,75年前的这一日,一个名为陈懋平的传奇旅人出生于重庆,她便是人们熟知的三毛。梁羽生曾这样评价三毛:“对于三毛,更合适的形容是奇女子——特立独行,志行高洁,不肯随波逐流。”的确,生于重庆、留学西班牙、安家撒哈拉……三毛一生的足迹遍布世界,旅途中集结而成的文字更让无数读者心动。

三毛

这个热爱旅行、随遇而安的三毛在遇上荷西后于几地短暂停留,又因为荷西的离去再次踏上旅途,她曾许愿,如果有来生,要做一只鸟,“飞越永恒,没有迷途的苦恼”。在她丰富的一生之中,大部分时间都在路上,一生去到54个国家,看遍了世间的风景,收获了真挚的爱情,写出无数触动人心的文字。

今天,就让凤凰网旅游带着大家一起重温三毛的过往,追随她的足迹去看世界各地的风景。

重庆

作家崔建飞曾在《三毛传》里记叙了这样一段场景——大约在1988年,三毛去往台北一所大学做演讲,在台上用重庆话说:“我是重庆的,黄桷垭。”

2018-07-22,三毛在重庆市南岸区的黄桷垭正街出生,直到1948年随父母离开去往南京。重庆,这个沿着江河和大山建起的城市,充满了洒脱豪迈的江湖气,而三毛热情直爽、敢做敢闯的性格恰如重庆山城人的特点。因此,即便一生之中去过世界各个角落,三毛对于重庆的情感依旧特别特殊。

重庆

重庆是一座旅游热门城市,朝天门、洪崖洞、解放碑等经典的去处总有熙熙攘攘的人流,实际上,这座城市还有许多值得探访的小众去处,三毛故居所在的重庆南岸黄桷垭正街便是其中之一。

黄葛古道

在过去,黄葛古道是重庆通往黔滇的主要干道,被称作重庆的“丝绸之路”。曾经的黄葛古道走过贩盐卖茶的马帮,走过入缅作战的远征军战士,如今是重庆市民茶余饭后闲逛遛食的去处。黄葛古道起于长江之滨的海棠溪,傍着重庆市中心的南山,得以在现代化的城市里留出一方净土,游客拾级而上,便有穿越至旧时光的错觉。

重庆

古道遍布着重庆随处可见的大叶榕,当地人称“黄桷树”,也是重庆的市树。黄桷树枝叶繁茂如巨伞,沿途洒下一片清幽,曲曲折折的石板路在其间隐约可见。古道两旁的民居虽矮旧却别致,黄桷树的根须在石头砌出的矮墙间伸展,打着“豆花”招牌的露天餐馆前,晒太阳的老大爷坐在高椅上翘着一只腿,悠闲赛神仙。

三毛故居

顺着黄葛古道穿过古朴的黄桷垭老街,在老街尽头有一间“三毛茶社”,三毛儿时成长的故居便隐藏在一旁幽深的小巷里。紧挨着川黔马道成长,看商贾军将往来不息,大概自那时起,便在幼时三毛的内下种下一颗行走四方的种子。

重庆

此处虽不如三毛在台湾和撒哈拉沙漠中的居所有名,却能让人追溯到三毛幼时成长的天地。走进故居小院,过去三毛荡过的秋千、落水的水缸早已不在,唯有写满时光印记的砖瓦传达出流逝岁月的气息,静静诉说过往。

重庆

故居外的三毛茶社里,老板按照当年茶馆的制式摆放桌椅,不少追寻三毛足迹来到此处的游人,都愿意进店喝一盏茶,读几页书,缅怀这位洒脱的奇女子。

推荐参观路线:

上新街转盘——黄葛古道——黄桷垭正街——三毛故居——黄桷垭后街

马德里

“我心里对西班牙总有一份特别的挚爱,近乎乡愁的感情将我拉了回来。”

1967年,三毛从台湾文化大学休学,只身远赴西班牙马德里留学。三毛在她最好的年华来到马德里,这里不仅是三毛钟爱的城市,更是她与荷西相爱的地方。马德里像是一个天生自带快乐因子的天堂,老城区的餐馆里互不相识的客人可以热情地聊天、喝酒,愉快地跳舞;店主们用各种稀奇古怪的物件装潢着自家小馆,极尽夸张与张扬,仿佛要给生活一个热烈的拥抱。

马德里

丽池公园

马德里市内规模最大的公园要数丽池公园,在西语中意为“快乐的隐退”,这里曾是西班牙皇室隐居和娱乐的场所,因此公园设计别具一格,是如今市民休闲约会的好去处。

马德里

就是在这座公园,情窦初开的荷西向正在读大二的三毛告白,彼时尚在高三念书的荷西对三毛说:“Echo,你等我六年。我要念四年大学,服两年兵役。六年一过,我一定要娶你!”六年之后,二人于马德里重逢并相爱,不知又在一起走过多少次丽池公园。

埃尔拉斯特洛跳蚤市场

在西班牙,拥有半个多世纪历史的埃尔拉斯特洛跳蚤市场几乎是旅行手册上必不可少的游览项目之一。在每逢周日便歇业的欧洲,安静的马德里街头到了这里,却成了最热闹的去处。

马德里

埃尔拉斯特洛跳蚤市场是欧洲最大的跳蚤市场之一,十几条街道上遍布着五花八门的摊位。这里也是三毛与荷西经常逛的地方,穿梭在热闹的人群里,在一片让人眼花缭乱的商品中淘几件可心的宝贝。市场上贩卖着不少历史悠久且富有质感的物件,在这里购物的满足感是商场里不可比拟的。除了淘宝,市场还会有各种街头表演和美食,一路走走看看,都能收获不一样的惊喜。

索非亚王后现代艺术中心

作为一座古老的城市,马德里的艺术气息绝非一言足以道尽,这里拥有世界知名的博物馆,索菲亚王后现代艺术中心便是其中之一。博物馆中收藏了20世纪以来西班牙当代艺术家们的造型艺术作品,其中包括被誉为西班牙现代美术三杰的毕加索、达利和米罗的不少作品,而镇馆之宝便是毕加索的《格尔尼卡》。

马德里

钟情于毕加索的三毛自然不会错过索非亚王后现代艺术中心,甚至于时常旷课前去看展,肆意地畅游在艺术的海洋中。

马德里康普顿斯大学

马德里康普顿斯大学是西班牙最大的国立自治综合大学,当年,三毛便是就读于这座大学的哲学系,这里也是三毛浪迹天涯的起点站。透过校园的某一扇窗,当年的三毛总能看到逃学来找她的荷西,想必如此青涩里透着美好的桥段,在今日的康普顿斯大学依旧日日上演。

马德里撒哈拉沙漠

“虽然我住在沙漠里,可是因为荷西在身边,我觉得这里繁花似锦。”

在三毛去过的众多目的地中,最为人熟知的莫过于撒哈拉沙漠。1973年7月,三毛与荷西在撒哈拉沙漠的阿尤恩小镇登记结婚,并定居于此。随后,她首次以“三毛”为笔名,在撒哈拉沙漠的背景下,写就充满异国情调的《撒哈拉的故事》。

三毛与荷西在撒哈拉沙漠

当世人读完她那一篇篇乐观有趣的沙漠故事后,这本应代表着荒凉的撒哈拉反倒化作一处浪漫的旅行地,成了摩洛哥蓝白童话之外的另一张旅行名片。

撒哈拉沙漠

撒哈拉沙漠是世界最大沙漠,横贯从东部红海到西部大西洋整个东西走向的非洲大陆,而三毛到过的阿尤恩,是摩洛哥一座毗邻大西洋的迷人城市,位于撒哈拉沙漠西部尽头。从摩洛哥卡萨布兰卡出发,每天都有航班前往此地,也是多数人选择进入撒哈拉沙漠的方式之一。

撒哈拉

阿尤恩的三毛故居

按照书中的线索,去往阿尤恩卡泰罗尼亚大街(Nakib大街)44号,这里便是三毛生活过的地方。四十多年过去,街道两旁的房屋仍然与书中描述无二,要不是门窗上褪色的油漆透露时光的流逝,人们或许要以为走上楼顶天台,看到三毛荷西上演经典的“飞羊落井”。

阿尤恩的三毛故居

帕拉多酒店

经由路人指点,来到阿尤恩市中心十字交叉口的帕拉多酒店。这里便是当年三毛与荷西卖鱼的国家旅馆,及至今日依旧照常营业。酒店内的环境变化不大,还保留着以往的制式,让人一眼便能还原过去上流社会杯盏流转的晚宴。在《素人渔夫》中,三毛写过一件趣事:她和荷西曾把在海边捕到的鱼卖到这间国家旅馆,但在当晚见到荷西的上司后,又用十二倍的高价请上司吃鱼。如果饶有兴致,不妨来这里吃一份性价比不错的自助晚餐,颇有几分穿越时空的意味。

帕拉多酒店

废弃的法院&老邮局

想要找到当年三毛与荷西登记结婚的邮局,只需前往北部西班牙的老城区,询问当地居民四十年前的邮局所在地即可。当年,三毛便是在这个老旧的邮局寄出书稿,至今此处依旧在运转。邮局之上的法院,见证了二人的婚礼,如今已经废弃,只供来人从外围瞻仰。

废弃的法院&老邮局

骑骆驼赏落日

当年面对着寂寥的沙漠,眼前有如血残阳,三毛几乎不能自已,“在原本期待着炎热烈日的心情下,大地化转为一片诗意的苍凉”。因此来到撒哈拉沙漠,除了追寻当年三毛的生活痕迹,还应有一次骑行骆驼赏落日的体验。在沙丘之上跋涉,耳边驼铃作响,寂静的撒哈拉在落日余晖中更显几分神秘与凄艳。

撒哈拉沙漠

旅行TIPS:

1.在摩洛哥市区有许多专业的沙漠团可以报名,在专业人士的指导下骑行骆驼;

2.沙漠条件简陋,随行带好药品、备用电源、饮用水等补给,以及头巾、墨镜等装备;

3.4月—9月是前往撒哈拉沙漠的最佳时期,此时天气凉爽,适宜出行。

加那利群岛

三毛——一个四处流浪的文人,却愿意在大加那利岛停留定居,并称其为“大西洋里七颗闪亮的钻石”。

1976年,三毛与荷西移居至与撒哈拉沙漠隔海相望的大加纳利岛,这座岛屿是西班牙加那利群岛中人口最多的一座,也是西班牙一处绝妙小众的目的地。在欧洲人心目中,加那利群岛是独一无二的度假天堂,由七座火山组成,阳光海滩、美食美景,还有当地居民的热情,在加那利群岛都能找到。

大加那利岛

大加那利岛

在大加那利岛上可以找到三毛的故居,在距离首府帕尔玛斯约半小时车程处,有一座泰尔德小镇(Telde),靠近大海的Lope de Vega 街3号,便是当年三毛与荷西的定居地。三毛曾用幸福的笔触描写这里:“我们现在的家,坐落在一个斜斜山坡的顶上。微风吹拂着美丽的山谷,落日在海水上缓缓转红。”如今再次前往此处,白门红瓦的建筑依旧如昨,时光仿佛停留在此地,只供来人前往阅读三毛生活的点滴。

大加那利岛

驱使着游客不远万里来到这里的因素中,还少不了岛上丰富的自然资源和多彩的美景。从故居出发前往西海岸,你可以找到岛上著名的坎特拉斯海滩,每年这里都会举办一次太阳狂欢节,因此海滩周边也是岛上旅客聚居的区域。往南走,便是大加那利岛的最南端的马斯帕洛马斯沙丘,这里是岛上特有的一片沙丘环境栖息地,独特的景观与别处形成鲜明的对比。

大加那利岛

拉芭玛岛

1979年,荷西在群岛中的拉芭玛岛找到一份潜水员的工作,三毛也随之一同前往这座小岛生活。在加那利群岛中,拉芭玛岛是最为肥沃的岛屿,岛上是满眼青绿的植被,甚至让三毛觉得这里像是烟雨中的江南。然而也正是在这个远离喧嚣的地方,荷西因为一场意外离世,他的坟墓便葬于小岛首府圣克鲁兹市政府公墓里,面朝着一片蔚蓝大海。

拉芭玛岛

在岛上徒步也是一件愉悦的体验,圣克鲁兹市老城区的街道上依旧保留着七彩缤纷的殖民建筑,是不可多得的风景线,来到这里便可尽情享受一份海岛生活的宁静。

拉芭玛岛

敦煌

“站在万里长城的城墙上,别人都在看墙,我仰头望天。天地宽宽大大、厚厚实实得将我接纳,风吹过来,吹掉心中所有的捆绑。”

1990年4月,三毛跟随旅行团来到敦煌,而正是与敦煌的这一面之缘,三毛便叮嘱友人,要将自己埋葬在这里。敦煌,一座拥有二千多年历史的文化名城,扼亚欧大陆桥之要道,是东西交通的喉襟,在丝绸之路上承载着国际间文化汇流周转的重要使命。

敦煌

作为古时重要的通商口岸和国际化的大都会,如今的敦煌成了游人重走丝路必到的地方。这里有闻名世界的景观和遗迹:莫高窟、月牙泉、鸣沙山、阳关、玉门关等,纷纷展现了大漠中他地不可类比的广袤辽阔与变换莫测之美;来自世界各地的文明与商品在此处交汇,也成就了敦煌灿烂的文化。

嘉峪关

三毛是从嘉峪关进入敦煌的,在其《敦煌记》中不难看出,当大西北苍茫的天地映入她眼中时,便唤起了她在撒哈拉大沙漠的回忆,往昔情感涌现,此刻,眼前的敦煌便成了三毛心中的埋骨之地。

嘉峪关

嘉峪关是古代“丝绸之路”的交通要塞,作为明代万里长城的西端起点,嘉峪关是长城沿线保存最为完好、规模最为壮观的古代军事城堡,有“雄关”之美誉。登上古关,举目远眺,眼前蜿蜒的古城墙和兀立的烽燧都在无声地诉说着过往,给来人以心灵的震撼。

嘉峪关

莫高窟

敦煌莫高窟位于敦煌市东南25公里鸣沙山东麓的断崖上,历经十个朝代近千年的营建,形成了规模宏大的石窟群,是世界上现存规模最大、营建时间最长、内容最丰富、保存最完整的佛教石窟寺庙遗址之一。

莫高窟

若非亲自来到莫高窟,决不能切身体验到三毛笔下灵魂的归处有多美。壁画上印刻着往昔歌舞翩跹、宝池荡漾,经由工匠巧手绵延千年,重现着过去的繁华盛世,却又安详沉静,让观者不由深陷其中。难怪三毛要在游览莫高窟之后,说道:“我的生命,走到这里,已经接近尽头。不知道日后还有什么权力要求更多。”或许,这位历经人世悲欢离合的文人,在壁画流转中看到自己的前世今生,在弥勒佛塑像前涤净尘世凡俗。

莫高窟

旅行TIPS:

1.为了更好地保护敦煌莫高窟,景区对游览人数进行控制,务必预先在网上预约门票

鸣沙山

三毛也曾来过敦煌的鸣沙山,在她的文章里,这片没有花朵和绿草的茫茫荒原唤起自己心中莫名的情感。在三毛离世之后,友人便将其一半的骨灰撒于鸣沙山,在此处为她建起一座衣冠冢。

鸣沙山

如今再去鸣沙山,三毛的衣冠冢的具体位置已然难寻,沿着沙山木梯一路向上攀登至顶,再回头遥望连绵起伏的沙丘,有如明黄色的湖泊。偶有大风带起涟漪,定格在沙丘上,又被下一阵清风抚平。

鸣沙山

在鸣沙山的环抱下,还有一湾月牙泉,自汉朝起便被称为“敦煌八景”之一。泉水弯曲如新月,四周被流沙环抱,虽遇强风而泉不为沙所掩盖,因“亘古沙不填泉,泉不涸竭”而成为奇观。大漠黄沙与泉中碧水相接,在蓝天下碰撞出简洁有力的色彩,此时只需静坐于前,用心感受自然壮阔神奇的魅力。

旅行TIPS:

1.欣赏或拍摄月牙泉有两个最好的角度:一是爬上沙山顶,俯瞰月牙泉;二是近距离的平视月牙泉。

2.鸣沙山的日落景观非常漂亮,游览时间最好选在5-10月的黄昏。

[责任编辑:徐婧 PSY055]

责任编辑:徐婧 PSY055

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